Jonathan Gold | L.A. restaurant review: Allumette is haute cuisine with Etsy sensibility

Ankimo (monkfish liver) is combined with umeboshi ponzu, sea grapes and momokochan. (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

Jonathan Gold | L.A. restaurant review: Allumette is haute cuisine with Etsy sensibility

SpoonFed: Via LA Times 

How do you know you’re in a serious restaurant at the moment — a place where the chef ferments his own turnips, keeps a copy of “Modernist Cuisine” by his bedside and dreams of visiting Spain’s Mugaritz restaurant?There will probably be a seaweed or two on any given plate, for the color, the crunch and the occasional spark of brininess, and bits of citrus zest will make it into places where you have never tasted citrus before. You will see at least one slow-poached egg, cooked to a perfect near-runniness at 63 degrees Celsius; top-shelf boutique greens that disappear long before you straggle into the farmers market on Wednesday morning; and a couple of flavors snagged from the bartender’s cache.

The presentation will be modern French, but the dishes may well be inspired by Italy, China and especially Japan, because Japanese (and New Nordic) cooking are what young chefs are crushing out on these days. You may go a few courses without seeing much in the way of meat, which is considered a little passé, and when you do it is apt to come in the form of an organ or an appendage. The wine will be both biodynamic and obscure; the beer list abbreviated, so that you do not mistake it for one of the gastropubs whose penchant for small plates and unusual flavors can sometimes be similar. If there is a chicory crisp in your chocolate ganache, chances are pretty good that you are in a place where the chef has a refined yet Etsy-ish approach to modern cuisine. [...] Click here to view original web page at Jonathan Gold | L.A. restaurant review: Allumette is haute cuisine with Etsy sensibility

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