Jonathan Gold’s favorite sushi restaurants + some great Westside joints

I can only assume that Jonathan Gold doesn’t make it to the Westside very often. I picked out just a few from his list that are worth a small hike but here are a few more of our own picks.

Jonathan Gold’s favorite sushi restaurants

SpoonFed: Via LA Times

Hiko

Shinji Murata is a gifted chef, and his sushi melts away on your tongue like good chocolate, leaving behind just the clean smack of fish and rice vinegar. He flirts with extreme acidity, but the flavors seem to balance themselves as you chew. The sake list is short but well-priced, and includes a few bottles hard to find elsewhere in town. And you will see at least one person kicked out of the restaurant during your meal, guaranteed. Think of it as dinner theater.

11275 National Blvd., West L.A., (310) 473-7688

Kiriko

Of the fine sushi bars in Los Angeles, Kiriko is perhaps the least forbidding, a place where you know you can get perfect shirako or sea snail in season but still treats mackerel with great respect, where you can find all the shiso pesto and sauteed monkfish liver you care to eat but still find a half-dozen species of silvery fish you’ve never before seen. The great specialty of the restaurant is actually cherrywood-smoked Copper River salmon with mango, a dish that certain local sushi masters would rather die than serve. (It’s their loss: The dish is stunningly good.)

11301 Olympic Blvd., No. 102, Los Angeles. (310) 478-7769

Kiyokawa

It is only when you settle into one of the stools along the sushi bar itself that you begin to notice the tiny details — the graceful curve of the handmade dishes, the marbled Spanish toro glowing like the rarest silk, the silvery glint of sunlight off an exquisitely fresh sardine — hinting that you may be in for something good. Fresh Japanese wasabi grated on sharkskin. Microscopically serrated cucumber. Chef-pickled ginger. Fan-cooled rice. Great sushi is in the details as much as it is in the fish.

265 S. Robertson Ave., Beverly Hills. (310) 358-1900

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